Poland: A recent study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology has shown a significant impact of gluconolactone (GLA) chemical peel treatment on lowering skin pH and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). GLA was also observed to have seboregulatory properties.

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"GLA chemical peel treatment significantly lowered skin pH at all measurement points. Also, there was a significant reduction in TEWL around eyes, right cheek, and left forehead after GLA treatment," the researchers reported. "No significant differences were observed between different GLA concentrations."

The skin is a barrier to potentially harmful external factors, with a particular focus on protection against infection and water loss. The barrier's quality can be assessed using objective instrumental measurements that determine skin parameters such as pH, transepidermal water loss, sebum level, and hydration. Barrier disorders are affected by the use of irritants, chemicals, excessive degreasing (which can affect TEWL increase), internal factors, hormonal disorders, allergies, dermatological diseases, and dietary deficiencies.
Gluconolactone is an oxidized glucose lactone derivative. In nature, GLA is found in cheese, honey, wine, tofu, and fruit juices. GLA exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant effects. It also presents soothing effects, improves the function of the skin barrier, and protects elastin fibres from UV-induced degradation.
Sylwia Jarząbek-Perz, Medical University of Lódź, Lódź, Poland, and colleagues, therefore, aimed to evaluate skin parameters such as transepidermal water loss, pH, sebum levels before, during, and after a series of applications of 10% and 30% GLA chemical peel in a split-face model.
The study included 15 female subjects. Three split-face procedures were conducted using two GLA solution concentrations applied on two sides of the face. The skin parameters were measured before treatments and 7 days after the last procedure at four measurement sites on either side of the face, that is, on the forehead, on the cheek, around the eye, and on the nose wing.
The study led to the following findings:
Measurement of sebum demonstrated some statistically significant changes between sebum levels in the cheeks after a series of treatments.
The pH measurement showed a reduction in pH value after each treatment at all measurement points.
The level of TEWL after treatments was significantly lower around the eyes, on the left forehead, and on the right cheek.
There were no significant differences between the use of different concentrations of the GLA solution.
"The findings reveal the multiple skin benefits of gluconolactone, making it an ideal ingredient for use in cosmetology, cosmetic, and dermatologic procedures," the researchers concluded.
Reference:
Jarząbek-Perz, S., Dziedzic, M., Rotsztejn, H., & Kołodziejczak, A. (2023). Evaluation of the effects of 10% and 30% gluconolactone chemical peel on sebum, pH, and TEWL. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22(12), 3305-3312. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15864